Throughout this article you can find groups that provide invaluable
information and are great to join. Look, learn, join, pass it on and
enjoy.
Get to Know Your Eco-Materials
Organic Cotton Thought widely to be a natural, healthy fiber,
cotton is, in fact, one of the most chemically laden crops in the
world! Conventional cotton (grown with the aid of pesticides and herbicides)
occupies only 3% of the world's farmland yet demands fully 25% of
the world's chemical pesticides and fertilizers. These chemicals not
only destroy the earth, they affect the farmers who work with them
as well as chemically sensitive people who wear the fiber. Organic
cotton is grown without the use of harmful chemicals, just like the
more mainstream concept of organic food.
Organic Wool Like organic cotton, organic wool is produced
without the use of harsh chemicals that can (and do) harm the sheep
as well as the farmers and workers who are involved in the process.
In fact, organic wool retains its lanolin (the natural oil found in
sheep's wool) which is stain resistant Vintage Fabric Clothes made
from reconstructed vintage fabric are possibly the ultimate in eco-fashion.
Unwanted clothing is deconstructed and then re-made into new, beautiful,
sometimes funky creations. Nothing new is produced and waste is reduced.
Most of these pieces are handmade, intricate, and truly works of art.
Bamboo Bamboo is known to be the fastest growing plant on
earth, making it naturally highly renewable. In fact, bamboo grows
to its maximum height in approximately 3 months and matures in 3-5
years for harvest. Bamboo's growth characteristics enable it to spread
rapidly across large areas. Because of its growth characteristics
and ability to spread, bamboo is known to improve soil quality in
degraded and eroded areas of land. Bamboo's natural growth habits
allow it to reproduce in abundance without the use of fertilizers
and without the need for pesticides. The process to make bamboo fiber
and yarn is similar to the process used to make tencel. The end result
is a luxurious, silky, earth-conscious fabric. Soy Now, soybean
protein fiber is being marketed as a "vegetable cashmere" - a new
eco-friendly luxury textile. Those who've tried it speak enthusiastically
about soy's soft feel, lustre, combined with washability and durability.
Soybean fiber also has the advantage of being a renewable natural
resource and a by-product of food manufacturing.
Hemp Hemp is about to defy its reputation for being an ugly,
colorless and formless fabric. The clothes at shopenvi.com made from
hemp are the antithesis of this stereotype-stylish, soft in texture,
and beautifully colored! Hemp crop is naturally resistant to insects
and pests and therefore can be grown free of chemical pesticides.
Its ability to regenerate the soil makes it one of the most environmentally
beneficial crops. Hemp fabric is durable, warm, nonirritating and
breaths well.
What makes clothing organic?
Organic clothing comes from all-natural materials (no synthetics
like polyester or rayon) and there are no pesticides, herbicides,
fungicides, rodenticides, radiation, or genetically modified organisms
used when growing the cotton/hemp/linen, or whatever plant we’re talking
about. Organic certification is complicated. According to the Organic
Trade Association, organic cotton is grown in 12 countries, with Turkey
and the United States leading the pack. There are a number of certifying
bodies around the globe including: Demeter (Europe), KRAV (Sweden),
Naturland (Germany), SKAL (Netherlands), The Soil Association (England),
The Japan Organic Cotton Association, The International Natural Textiles
Association (Germany), the USDA, and more. The International Federation
of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM) strives to create international
standards, and certifies the certification schemes of individual nations.
The Institute for Market Ecology provides on-location certification
on behalf of many of the organizations listed above, and according
to the Organic Cotton Blog, is certifying Walmart’s and Sam’s Club
cotton. The Organic Trade Association has developed certification
for fiber processing. What does this mean? Clothes certified organic
will arrive having been processed, dyed, transported, etc. in the
most non-toxic manner possible. What are the various meanings of "sustainable"
and "organic" clothing? Check out this informative examination from
the Organic Clothing Blog. The Fiber and Fabrics section in general
is a great place to learn about hemp, wool, bamboo... And the associated
Lotus Organics Clothing, Fiber and Fashion glossary contains most
of the fiber definitions you would ever need.
Conventional agriculture destroys biodiversity and renders
the soil barren.
More than 2.3 billion pounds of pesticides are used each year on US
farms alone. Unfortunately, pesticide use is steadily increasing,
in the US and worldwide. In conventional agriculture, chemical pesticides
are used to eliminate all other plants and unwanted insects. This
also kills the beneficial micro-organisms that normally bring nutrients
to the soil, making it necessary to add synthetic fertilizers. As
pests build immunities, the soil becomes stripped of nutrients and
the need for more chemicals increases, creating a spiral that eventually
leaves land barren and unable to grow.
Organic farming brings balance to the field and strength to
the plant.
The philosophy of organic farming is about bringing life to the soil,
and managing the balance of a diverse ecosystem. When left alone,
insects and plants in nature keep each other in check by thriving
off of one another. Organic farming uses this diversity to its advantage,
and keeps fields in balance using natural predators against pests.
Without chemical treatments, the plants grow stronger, and are better
able to fend for themselves. As a result, organic fruits and vegetables
are higher in antioxidants and nutrients, and organic cotton fiber
is stronger than conventional cotton.
"All natural fiber" isn't necessarily chemical-free.
The conventional processing of cotton textiles relies heavily on chemicals,
many of which are acutely toxic, and classified by the World Health
Organization as hazardous. Our groundwater is increasingly polluted
by wastewater from textile manufacturing. Traces of these chemicals
can remain in fabrics, even after washing. This can cause an array
of health problems that affect the nervous system, respiratory system
and the skin, including; head-aches, dizziness, and irritations to
the eyes, nose and throat, as well as difficulties with sleep, concentration
and memory. Some chemicals are stored and collected in the body, called
bioaccumulation. These chemicals attack and weaken the immune system.
Pesticides used on conventional cotton end up in our food.
During ginning, the cotton plant is separated to utilize its different
parts. Cottonseed oil is commonly found in snack foods like potato
chips and cookies. And the cottonseeds themselves, high in protein,
are used to feed beef and dairy cattle. Fortunately, organic cottonseed
is being sent to organic dairy farms as feed. So when you purchase
organic cotton, you are also helping to provide the much needed chemical-free
seed to organic dairy farmers.
One great way to support change is by the consumer choices
you make.
The OCA and her allies have launched a new global campaign to raise
awareness about the negative health and environmental effects of conventional
and genetically engineered cotton and the institutionalized ex0plooitation
of clothing sweatshops. By uniting organic consumers, anti-genetic
engineering activists, trade unionists, religious social justice advocates,
progressives in the fashion and apparel industry, and the Fair Trade/anti-sweatshop
communities into a potent force we can change the dynamics of the
marketplace and fundamentally alter public policy. The Clothes for
a change campaign is demanding that major clothing retailers and manufacturers:
Stop using genetically engineered cotton.
Start blending in certified organic or “transition
to organic” cotton in their clothing.
Guarantee that they meet independently verified
Fair labor (non-sweatshop) standards. While the OCA and our allies
put marketplace pressure on the clothing giants, we will also be
enlisting public interest groups to support the campaign by:
Committing to procure non-sweatshop, environmentally
sound products
Signing-on in support of the core demands of
the Clothes for a Change campaign.
While the OCA and our allies put marketplace pressure on the clothing
giants, we will also be enlisting public interest groups to support
the campaign by:
Committing to procure non-sweatshop, environmentally sound products.
Signing-on in support of the core demands of the Clothes for
a Change campaign.
Sustainable Cotton encompasses biologically-based, IPM, and organic
farming practices in the production, manufacturing and use of cotton.
The Sustainable Cotton Project’s grower programs help move farmers through
the changeover from chemically-dependent to more biological sound approaches.
Composted manures and cover crops replace synthetic fertilizers; innovative
weeding strategies are used instead of herbicides; beneficial insects
and trap crops control insect pests; and alternatives to toxic defoliants
prepare plants for harvest.
The ultimate goal of “sustainable cotton” is to move
sustainable production, manufacturing and use practices throughout
the cotton value chain in order to create a healthy and profitable
industry for growers, their communities, manufacturers, retailers
and users of all cotton products.
Overview
The Sustainable Cotton Project is committed to promoting fair trade
organic and sustainable cotton clothes. We are helping to build a
large network of consumer activists, designers, students, labor unions,
farmers, social and economic justice groups, clothing manufactures,
and environmentalists to increase consumer demand for organic and
sustainable cotton apparel in our communities, companies and campuses.
More and more people are demanding products made without exploitative
labor – fair made, not sweatshop made. With pressure already
upon the garment industry for fair labor policies, why continue to
support the use of toxic fibers within the workplace.
Over the past decade, you may have heard some of the reports citing
conventional cotton farming as one of agriculture’s most environmentally
destructive activities. The simple act of growing and harvesting the
one pound of cotton fiber needed to make a T-shirt takes an enormous
toll on the air, water, and soil, not to mention the health of people
living and working in cotton country.
In response, a small number of farmers and manufactures have pioneered
the market for organically grown and sustainable cotton, producing fibers
and clothing while significantly reducing toxic chemicals. There can
be enough organic cotton produced annually to accommodate demand –
the big gap is the U.S. market, which means educating consumers and
creating consumer demand!
Check out our Tool Kit, a resource packet of information you can
use right away – please feel free to copy and distribute the
Tool Kit to your friends, family, church, company, neighborhood stores,
professors, etc. The list of companies and colleges using organic
cotton fibers increases every day thanks to people continuing to educate
companies about the negative impacts of conventional cotton! Search
the web for “organic cotton” and you will find numerous
companies selling all kinds of organic products.
1. Shop with a plan - When you bring an article of clothing into
your life, it’s kind of like adopting a dog or cat. That cute little
number has to have a place in your wardrobe, and you’re agreeing to
provide for and give it the longest possible life with you. Abandoning
the impulse buy may sound boring, but how exciting is a closet full
of stuff that doesn’t work? In the long run, knowing what you're looking
for before you shop will save time and eliminate clutter. You'll get
more use out of a piece that looks and feels great: What colors work
for you? What fits work the best? How will the piece get along with
everything else in the closet? If the answer to "Will I still want
to wear this rhinestone-studded bustier in two years?" or “Can I eventually
find a way to use it in a craft project?” is no, skip it.
2. Love your duds - Whatever you've chosen, take good care of it.
When you get home, change out of work gear and into your famous dressing
gown or leisure suit. Don’t cook or check the tire pressure in clothes
you want to wear in public. Learn how to sew a button back on, or
how to coax a nimble friend into doing it for you. Get the name of
a local tailor or seamstress for major repairs or alterations.
3. Don't go dry - Though the industry has improved much since 1992,
there is still a high likelihood that your trusty corner cleaner uses
perc (tetrachloroethylene), a known carcinogen. See if there is a
local green cleaner employing "wet cleaning" or liquid CO2 techniques.
Many articles whose tags ask for the dry clean treatment can actually
be hand washed, especially silk, wool and linen.
4. Buy vintage or used - People unload clothes for all types of reasons,
and you know that adage about trash and treasure. From Oscar-worthy
vintage dresses to Freecycled denim, you can likely find the piece
you’re looking for second hand. You’ll be giving a cast-off garment
a second life, and possibly supporting charitable work in the process.
5. Wash well - Washing wreaks the most havoc of all. It requires
lots of water and energy, so only do it when you absolutely need to
and have a full laundry load. Turn articles inside out and use the
lowest temp possible. If you have a dirty spot, make a thin salt paste
and soak the affected fabric for a half hour before washing. Choose
phosphate-free and biodegradable detergents and line dry as much as
possible. Treat stains quickly with nontoxic removers. If you’re buying
a new washing machine, look for one with an Energy Star label.
6. Wear organic - Though cotton is marketed as clean, fresh, and
natural, conventional varieties are anything but. It takes a third
of a pound of chemical fertilizers and pesticides to produce the cotton
for one T-shirt! That means lots of direct, unhealthy exposure for
farmers and nearby wildlife, and heaps of unnecessary pollution. Ick.
Luckily, organic cotton is becoming easier and easier to find. As
mega-stores get into the game, however, it’s important to stay vigilant
about what organic means, so you know you’re really getting clean
clothes. Also know that though the cotton may have been organic to
start with, your T may be full of processing chemicals and metal-laden
dyes. See below for more info on labeling and certification.
7. Find a re-purpose - A re-purposed garment used to be another or
many other articles. Designers all over the globe have taken on this
transformative challenge in recent years, with very wearable results.
This means a one-of-a-kind look for you, a new life for old fabric,
and a livelihood for maverick re-users.
8. Approach new fabrics with skeptical enthusiasm - No doubt you’ve
heard the hype around bamboo, soy, or even corn fabric. The idea of
finding alternatives to petrochemical-based and conventionally grown
options makes us all perk up and we see why many eco-conscious designers
are excited about them. Bamboo, for instance, sounds great: it’s a
fast-growing plant, not reliant on chemicals, and beautifully drapes
the human form. Trouble is, bamboo plantations can displace native
forests, and the harvesting and fiber processing are often polluting
and unregulated. As with soy, corn, and Tencel (which comes from trees),
the processing from plant to fabric is energy and resource intensive.
For now, approach these as alternatives to poly, nylon, acrylic or
conventional silk and await more info. As always, shop with a plan:
don’t fill multiple shopping bags just because the labels say “eco.”
Read more about fabric choices below.
9. Choose clothes that work for you - It’s hard to feel beautiful
in your raw silk dress when it’s likely that children’s scalded hands
were part of the production chain. Conventional clothing might not
say it, but clothing made under fair-wage and labor practices will
usually advertise it. SweatShop Watch and Behind The Label are good
sources of info. See more resources below.
10. Don’t throw it all away Finally, a stain, a tear, or changing
fashion threaten to separate you from your favorite dress shirt. Don’t
just abandon your old friend to the waste-stream! If the condition
is perfectly good, you can always donate or Freecycle it (see below
for donation resources).
